Showing posts with label Manorbier. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Manorbier. Show all posts

Sunday, 19 May 2013

End of an ordeal: walked out!

As befitting the end of a challenge, the last day turned out to be the best, 'out came the sun and washed out all the rain' according to the poem of my childhood starring Incey Wincey Spider. But the wind was ever present. and as if willing me to finish, the wind blew me the 6 miles or so to Dinbych-Y-Pysgod or the pretty fishing port and holiday centre know by the English as Tenby.
From the deliciously tranquil village of Manorbier, with its excellent B&B, friendly pub and magnificent castle, the path climbed high promontories with sweeping views over to the island of Caldey with its sandy beach and monastery, and dropped suddenly avoiding the fluttering red flags of the military firing range overlooking Caldey Sound.
In no time I was swallowed up by the town and found myself wandering in the middle of the road, forgetting momentarily that there we cars after so many days without their nuisance.
Tenby looked like a spring bride in the bright sunshine, freshly painted pastel coloured facades smiled down to the wide expanse of golden sands at North and South Beaches, a prettier place would be hard to find.
Not quite the end of the Pembrokeshire Coastal Pathway, for me it was the end; the few miles through Saundersfoot and on to the end at Amroth was a step too far after the buffeting and soaking of the past week.
Im happy my body and especially my feet remained uninjured, I am proud of my quiet achievement. No, I would not walk the path again, since you asked. Vertigo will ensure ill not subject myself to such a challenge and I should perhaps not travel such a precipitous highway without some companionship. Email requests please...
A train brought me home safe and sound and better for the experience.

It's Sunday and I'm settled in and glad to be back home.













Wednesday, 15 May 2013

Not more walking!


You guessed it; another wet day dawned. Sometimes the task seems daunting in the foul weather, there's not much enjoyment except to load on the miles and hope.
The route suggests I take a circuitous arc of more than 20 miles through the petro-chemical installations of Milford Haven, out onto the wild windy reaches of West Angle; it seemed from OS OL 36 unlikely I would find accommodation and an drying fire. The locals confirmed my worse fears: the rain was set for the day.

In cut out and discarded the 20 miles round the oil refineries. i took a bus as a gesture of defiance and set out from a more southerly point in the pouring rain.
Nature was closed for the day. At Stackpole Head there were no kittiwakes, razorbills, fulmars or guillemots and my new 'bins' remained in my backpack. The sea had the all the character of a wet blanket, even the blow-holes were closed for the day and the ruffians at the base of the cliffs were having a lie-in.
The bakery and teashop at Stackpole Quay was lifeless, a single fishing smack anchored off shore rose and fell with the gentle swell. There was only me, the cliffs and the sea.
Soon into my rhythm the light rain presented few problems. The grass on the track, however, grew in great tussocks of rain drenched leaves and soon my boots were waterlogged; I had only one option and I was exercising it with little enjoyment. There were places to stop and amaze at the view through the rain. Vertical strata rose out of the sea and at times the cliffs resembled giant organ pipes. In other parts the vertical cliffs were ground down by the sea at the base of the cliffs like a vast surface of wet, black waffles, each indent an enticing, deep mysterious rock pool. Sweeps of sandy beaches rinsed by the rain came and went, missing the chatter of birds and cries holiday makers on sunny days.
At last the path nose-dived from the cliff tops to an arching stretch of would be golden sand. In the beach toilet block I warmed my hands and dried my fleece hat in the hot air hand-dryer and plodded onward on the soft wet sand; soon a path rose steeply into the cloudy sky and I was back in business.
Up on the cliffs, I gave up taking photos as the rain notched up a gear and I began to crave a log fire and hot buttered toast with strawberry jam.

A few hours later I lay in a hot bath, my sodden jacket and sloshing boots whisked off to dry by the AGA and replaced with a pot of Darjeeling and a dozen chocolate Digestive biscuits. Upon recommendation from a couple of dog-walking residents of Manorbier village, I landed in the B&B of Wendy and Roger, not their real names you understand.

I had a burger and chips at the local pub with couple of pints of cider and stayed to join in the quiz before hobbling 'home' in the brogues borrowed from Roger. He told me he'd purchased the pair in Buenos Aires. He clearly never paid for them because they squeaked and began to sever my big toe from my foot as I tottered back to my billet. I woke the ancient 'deaf' Jack Russell called Crumble and climbed the last steps of the day, not to a hilltop but to an enormous four poster bed and voluminous duvet. I knew breakfast was going to delight. I fell asleep instantly and dreamed of galleons in full sale.

There's always a tomorrow.